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Pie crust, Crisco & trans fat

March 26, 2007

in food, pies and tarts, recipes, websites

You might have seen Zero Trans Fat Crisco in a small green can at your supermarket. You might also have seen it, as I did, at a clearance price. The green can has been discontinued because all Crisco shortenings have been reformulated to be zero grams trans fat.

That does not mean there is no trans fat in Crisco. Government regulations allow labels to state “zero” if the trans fat per serving is under 0.5 grams. The old formulation contained about 1.5 grams per serving which, for Crisco, is one tablespoon.

We all know by now how harmful trans fat is and I tossed my Crisco long ago, even though one of my favorite pie crusts uses shortening. Then I tried the green can version and was surprised by how well it performed. Really, the crust seemed indistinguishable from those made with the old stuff.  That’s what Consumer Reports found too, when it tested the reformulated Crisco.

Crisco’s website offers some good information about the new product, although please take with a grain of salt (no, make that a shaker) the company’s assertion that butter should not be used in a recipe which calls for shortening. Of course it can, although it will perform differently but almost certainly taste better. Crisco has no qualms about recommending shortening in place of butter and provides a handy chart for just that purpose. Shortening has no water and more air than butter, which is why cakes and cookies are puffier with its use, and sometimes a bit of water needs to be added.

So there is a place for Crisco in my pantry again, albeit a specialized one. Oh, the pie crust recipe? Coming right up. I know many people make pies for Easter and this crust is bullet-proof and forgiving, even for beginners. Here’s the recipe, which is from Pies and Tarts by Williams-Sonoma. I’ve included instructions for the processor; follow your usual steps if making by hand or in a stand mixer. If you wish, substitute some or all of the shortening with butter, but it is easier to handle and flakier with shortening.

Williams-Sonoma Flaky Pie Crust

Single Crust (9″) 
6 ounces  (1 1/2 cups) all purpose flour — (185 grams)
1/2 teaspoon  salt
4 ounces  (1/2 cup) vegetable shortening
4 tablespoons  cold water — approximately
                         
Double Crust
9 ounces  (2 1/4 cups) all purpose flour — (280 grams)
3/4 teaspoon  salt
6 ounces  (3/4 cup) vegetable shortening
6 tablespoons  cold water — approximately

With steel blade in processor, put the flour, salt and shortening (in one lump) into the bowl and process with 15 pulses. The mixture should look light and dry and will resemble tiny, irregular flakes and crumbs.

Add about 2/3 of the water and process again with 5 pulses. Add 1 more tablespoon of water (2 more, for double crust) and process with 3 pulses.

Stop and feel the dough; it should be just damp enough to mass together. If necessary, add more water by teaspoonfuls, processing for just an instant after each addition. The total mixing time is less than 1 minute and the dough should not form a ball; it should remain a rough, shaggy mass.

Use it right away or chill it. (I always chill mine.)

Related posts:  Pie making tools  Pie Crust, Butter and Cholesterol

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