From Scratch

Some of my fondest memories are of Lugano, Switzerland, about an hour from Milan by train and one of the most beautiful spots on earth. I call it the Riviera by the Alps. Lake Lugano is ringed by palm trees but glance up and the Alps are in view, snow-capped even in summer.

There’s a promenade around the lake and usually a gelato vendor or two; how pleasant and relaxing it is to buy a scoop of gelato, sit on a bench, feel the cooling breeze, listen to the rustling palms and watch the world go by. 

A few days ago the Epicurious feed in my sidebar featured a Bon Appétit recipe for a trio of gelati and I clicked on it immediately. This coffee version caught my eye but unfortunately, it uses two things I don’t drink: instant coffee and rum. I do keep instant espresso (Medaglia d’Oro brand) for baking, so despite my preference for first trying a recipe as written I did make substitutions. After tasting it in the soft stage, with espresso’s distinctive flavor, I don’t think I’d want rum in it. And even though the recipe says five minutes for the milk mixture to come to a boil and thicken, it was more like ten — and I had let the milk come to room temp first.

Bon Appétit says this is a Sicilian gelato, which means it has no eggs or cream. Who knew?

Coffee Gelato

3 tablespoons dark rum *
1 1/2 tablespoons instant coffee granules
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
Large pinch of salt
2 1/4 cups whole milk

* I used water 

Mix rum and instant coffee in small bowl until coffee dissolves. Whisk sugar, cornstarch, and salt in heavy medium saucepan until no cornstarch lumps remain. Gradually whisk in milk. Cook over medium heat until mixture thickens and boils, stirring constantly, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; whisk in coffee mixture. Press plastic wrap onto surface of gelato base. Refrigerate until cold, about 3 hours. Transfer gelato base to ice cream maker and process according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer gelato to container; cover and freeze.

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