From Scratch

I believe I’ve been away from Washington, DC too long. Until last Wednesday, I’d never even heard of salted oatmeal cookies, let alone had one, and they seem to be quite the thing in Washington. It’s not that they contain salt like nearly every other cookie, rather they are salted on top the way we sprinkle cookies with sugar.

We know a bit of salt makes sweet things sweeter — am I alone in sprinkling some on watermelon? — but I read about these with almost morbid fascination. In The Tale of One Cool Cookie, Leigh Lambert of The Washington Post wrote of her quest for a recipe for Salty Oats, served at a chain of teahouses. Of course, the recipe is proprietary but that didn’t stop her, and others, from trying to duplicate them. With all that as a build-up, I had to make them.

They go together in no time although the dough was softish and rather sticky, even after the requisite stay in the fridge. I like the fact that this dough will keep for several days, so I only baked off a few. When the time came to salt the cookies I did pause, canister of Baleine in hand, before doing the deed; it was as alien as seeing the Medrich brownies floating in the sink. 

The cookie is described as “all about the oats.” With so little spice in them, I was prepared to be indifferent at best, even though the kitchen smelled heavenly as they baked. Thankfully, they cooled quickly and I took a bite. Now I get it.

I’ve simply been away too long from Washington.

Salted Oatmeal Cookies

This cookie is all about the oats, without much spice to interfere with their earthy taste. It’s also a great dough to make ahead and keep on hand to bake off a few when the urge hits. Refrigerate the dough for several days. The cookies can be stored in an airtight tin for up to 1 week.

Makes 18 cookies

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups flour
2 cups rolled oats (not quick-cooking)
Sea salt, for sprinkling

In the large bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter for a few minutes on medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the sugars, baking powder, baking soda and cinnamon, beating until the mixture is well blended.

Reduce the speed to medium and add the eggs and vanilla extract, mixing until well incorporated. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour and oats, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary and mixing just until they are incorporated.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and chill the dough for at least an hour before baking.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Form the dough into golf ball-size balls and place about 2 inches apart on the baking sheet. Sprinkle sea salt generously on top of each ball of dough, as you would sugar.

Bake 1 sheet at a time for 15 minutes or until the cookies are puffed and beginning to turn golden, being careful not to overbake. (The cookies should have a tender interior.) Transfer the cookies, still on the parchment paper, to a wire rack to cool completely.

Recipe © 2007 The Washington Post Company

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