From Scratch

The first time I ate gnocchi I was about seven years old and was served them at a playmate’s house. We had a lot of fun saying the word over and over, wrinkling our noses in an exaggerated way on the “nyuh” sound. It was certainly more fun than eating them; they were leaden starch balls and altogether unpleasant, but mindful of my manners, I ate them. And I hoped never to see them again.

A couple decades later I was re-introduced to them and discovered how wonderful and variable they can be. I hadn’t made them in ages, then I noticed them in a new cookbook I’ll be reviewing in a few weeks, Impress for Less by Hope Fox. I love the concept of the book: restaurant recipes by notable chefs which are streamlined (one of my favorite words) for home kitchens and home cooks. This recipe is from James Beard Award-winning Chef Tony Mantuano of Spiaggia, on Chicago’s Magnificent Mile.

It’s part of a braised beef dish, with the gnocchi served with sauce from the beef. Since braised brisket’s on the menu today it seemed an ideal time to try them. They can be made ahead and frozen uncooked — I made them yesterday and parked them in the freezer — or made with the braise, baking the potatoes alongside it. Gnocchi are also a good stand-alone side dish, served with savory ragu or just with butter and fresh-grated cheese.

When making them alone a toaster oven is a great way to bake the potatoes, but with more people owning a microwave than a toaster oven I used that, giving two potatoes 13 minutes at full power (700w). If you try them, use a light touch — the lack of which was the problem, I believe, with those mini-cannonballs of my childhood — and I’d recommend adding most of the flour, but not all, till you see whether you need it. The specified two cups was too much for my dough, which I made with exactly one pound of potatoes, so I let the dough sit for about fifteen minutes to hydrate to work with it easily.

[Update: They were wonderful, tasty floaters. No photo of them wallowing in brisket sauce because Mr. Knife Skills asked if we might, for a change, eat while it’s still warm instead of waiting while I photograph it. I thought it was a reasonable request. On a holiday.]

Chef Mantuano’s Gnocchi

2 russet potatoes (about 1 pound)
2 large egg yolks, beaten
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Grated Parmesan-Reggiano, for serving

Prick the potatoes all over with the tines of a fork and bake at 350 degrees (alongside the beef) until very tender, about one hour. While they are still hot (protect your hands with a folded kitchen towel) peel the potatoes and mash or put them through a ricer into a bowl.

Spread the potatoes into a thin, even layer on the work surface without pressing or compacting them. Let cool slightly,

When cool enough to handle, pour the egg yolks over the potatoes and sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and white pepper. Toss the eggs with the potatoes and fold in the flour until combined and you have a smooth but slightly sticky dough. It should take no longer than 3 minutes to work the flour into the mixture; remember, the longer the dough is kneaded the more flour it will require and the heavier it will become.

Pull off pieces of the dough and roll into ropes about 1/2 inch thick. Cut the ropes into 1-inch long dumplings. Roll each dumpling gently in the palm of your hand, first into a ball and then taper the ends so that it resembles a football. Place the gnocchi on a lightly floured cloth so that they are not touching and let dry for 15 minutes.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi; they will sink and then rise to the surface as they cook. Allow them to cook 3 minutes after they rise to the surface, then drain. (If making with a braise: Add the cooked gnocchi to the pan with the cooked beef. Place over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes to allow the gnocchi to marry with the meat and sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste.)

Divide the pasta among warmed individual plates and spoon more sauce over the top. Serve immediately with Parmesan on the side.

Chef’s notes: Gnocchi can be frozen for up to one month. Place on sheet pan lined with wax or parchment paper dusted with flour. Place the pan in the freezer until gnocchi are hard, about 20 minutes. Pack in plastic bags and freeze until ready to cook. Cook as above, making sure to return the water to a boil as soon as possible after the gnocchi are added.

Ella’s notes: My work surface for something this messy is extra-wide foil taped to the counter, and dollar store foil is fine for that. I got about 36 gnocchi from the recipe; if I were to double it I’d use a food mill to “mash” and peel the potatoes in one step.

Recipe courtesy of Chef Tony Mantuano. Source: Impress for Less by Hope Fox. (Wiley, 2007) 

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