From Scratch

It’s rare for me to cut into a warm loaf of bread; crust and crumb both benefit from complete cooling as the hot-from-the-oven moisture dissipates. This loaf, which I’ve made for more than a decade, is an exception. The kitchen smells divine while it bakes and it’s heavenly when it’s warm.

Semolina flour (not meal) is not difficult to find, although it might be called pasta flour or durum flour. This loaf is lightened with all-purpose flour and an egg white; I used Just Whites, adding the powder to the dry ingredients and the water to the liquids. This recipe was given to me with measurements by weight and the liquid amount is spot-on when the flours are weighed. I’ve never made it by volume and I’m approximating those amounts. You might well have to adjust the water if you measure by cups.

This bread employs a variation of an artisanal technique called autolyse (AUTO-leez), invented in the 1970’s by the legendary French master baker, Raymond Calvel. Once the flours and liquids have formed into a cohesive mass, it’s left alone to rest and hydrate before the yeast and other ingredients are added. The dough is less sticky for having absorbed the liquid and is easier to handle and shape. In this recipe, though, everything is mixed together before the rest and, technically, this is a pre-ferment. The true autolyse works best with sponges, poolishes and very wet doughs; this variation will still produce a better bread because the hydration enables gluten development without excessive mixing, which can lead to oxidation and off flavors.

You can see by the slight tears above that the bread overproofed on its second rise. I was called away and it went about seven minutes too long to fully accomodate the oven spring, the additional rising in the oven. No matter. It’s still delicious. If you use active dry yeast, use the same amount but expect rising times to be about 50% longer. And if you’re new to bread making just remember: the worst loaf you ever make will still be better than anything you buy at the supermarket.

Braided Semolina Bread

1 1/2 tsp sea salt
2 TB sugar
5 1/2 oz /154 g /scant 1 cup semolina flour
8 1/2 oz /238 g /approx 2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp instant yeast
8 oz/1 cup cool water
2 TB olive oil
1 egg white
OR
2 tsp. Just Whites (added to dry) + 2 TB water
sesame seeds for the top

Combine all dry ingredients in mixer fitted with the dough hook or processor bowl fitted with the steel blade and blend thoroughly. Combine and add liquids; mix or process just until the dough comes together. Let rest for 30 minutes. (If in a mixer bowl, cover with a damp towel.)

Knead for 2-3 minutes on Speed 2 of KitchenAid mixer or 45-60 seconds in a processor. Turn out dough into a greased bowl, cover tightly and let rise for about an hour, till doubled.

Divide dough into three equal pieces, roll into 14″ lengths. Braid. Cover with a towel and let rise about 40 minutes until nearly doubled.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Brush or spray water onto the loaf and scatter sesame seeds on top. Bake 18-22 minutes, until it’s golden brown, sounds hollow when tapped and interior temperature registers 190-205 degrees on an instant read thermometer.

Remove to a rack to cool.

Yield: 25 ounces unbaked, 1 large loaf.

Related: How to: Braid bread dough

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