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Chili spices and technique

November 7, 2007

in food, soups and stews, tips and tools

chiliseasonings.jpgI love chili and even when I was a rookie in the kitchen I made it without a recipe, concocting it according to my mood and what was on hand. You probably make chili that way too, and this is not a recipe. It’s about a technique I adopted a few years ago.

I’d always added my chili seasonings with the meat or with tomatoes and whatever liquid I might be using that day. All too often I had to add more near the end; their intensity seemed to just cook away.

Then I read an article in the March, 2003 Cook’s Illustrated that addressed this very problem: taking everyday supermarket chili ingredients but making them taste full-flavored and deep in a short time. I tried it and became a convert. 

As you can see from the photo, the spices are all in the pan at the beginning of cooking and they are cooked for several minutes. I’d done this with other cuisines; it makes the difference and the magazine’s recommended combination of seasonings (listed here, but hotter than CI uses) further enhances the taste. Here’s how it goes, and anyone not already cooking with the ears and nose, as well as the eyes, will be on their way to that better technique no matter what’s on the stove.  

Heat oil in the pan over medium heat until it’s shimmering. This is so important in cooking; when the onions are added there should be a vigorous hiss and sizzle, otherwise they’re simply being steamed. The garlic should sound its presence too, and both aromatics will be fragrant.

Right on the heels of those two ingredients I add a generous 2 tablespoons of chili powder, 1 1/2 teaspoons of cumin, 1 very generous teaspoon of red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon of coriander, 1/2 teaspoon of oregano and 1 teaspoon of cayenne. I cook them, stirring from time to time so they don’t burn, for 8 -10 minutes, until the onion is soft and browned. The fragrance from the pan is delicious.

Only then do I add and brown the meat — it was one pound of ground turkey in this case — followed by tomatoes and beans, if I’m using them. I hold off on salt until the very end. The result is a full-flavored pot of chili that tastes as if it’s been simmering much longer than the hour or so it takes to make, and I don’t have to add more seasoning at the end.

If time is money, I think that’s a lot of bang for the buck.

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Chili without guilt | From Scratch
January 31, 2008 at 8:56 am

{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Maninas November 16, 2007 at 4:04 am

I like the mixture of spices you are using. I tend to fry the onions first, and then add the spices, then the meat. I will try this way, too.

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2 ellaella November 16, 2007 at 7:28 am

Hi! Cooking the spices does seem to make a difference.

The bean stew on your blog reminds me I’ve got a recipe for a lamb stew with peanuts I want to try. I might try yours first. Looks great for Lent.

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