From Scratch

These delectable cookies, with a rich, flaky dough of cream cheese and butter, are probably the most popular Jewish cookie in America, loved by Gentiles too. The name means “little twists” in Yiddish and they’re year-round favorites but are traditional at Hanukkah. It’s early this year; the first candle will be lit the evening of December 4. 

When I mentioned to Mr. Knife Skills a couple years ago that I was going to try my hand at rugelach he raised one eyebrow — I so envy people who can do that — and asked if I thought I could.

“Sure,” I said. “They’re exactly like a Christmas cookie my family has made for generations.”
“Exactly?”
“Well. The dough’s a little different and the filling’s a little different. The shape’s a little different and we put powdered sugar on ours. Other than that, they’re the same cookie.”

He laughed — at me, not with me — but I had the last laugh. They’re so simple to make.

The velvety dough is easy to handle, thanks to the cream cheese, and the filling is endlessly variable. A mixture of cinnamon sugar and finely chopped nuts is almost always part of the filling and often is the only filling. I’ve used another traditonal element, raspberry jam, and sometimes with this combo I add currants or mini chocolate chips. Any jam, jelly or preserves can be used — I’m actually using up some Polaner All Fruit today — and I’ve even seen them made with chocolate-hazlenut spread, such as Nutella.

Rugelach dough recipes vary too. Some use all butter or sour cream and I’ve seen a few that use yeast. Mine is based on recipes from two friends and the weight of the key ingredients is nearly equal. Rich indeed.

This recipe makes 48 to 64 rugelach, depending on how large you like them. I usually make 12 from one ball of dough but did one with only 8 so they’re easier to see. The recipe can be halved without problem, but the dough and the cookies freeze well. You’ll have sugar/nut filling left over; in a tightly-sealed container it will stay good in the fridge for months.

Dough in the freezer, filling in the fridge, rugelach any time without fuss.

Rugelach

Dough
8 ounces unsalted butter, cut into 1″ pieces
8 ounces cream cheese, cut into 8 pieces
8 1/2 ounces (2 cups) all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp salt

Filling
3/4 cup walnuts, finely chopped
1/2 cup sugar, white or light brown (brownulated is great here)
1 tsp cinnamon

raspberry jam

If making the dough by hand or in a stand mixer, have all ingredients at room temperature. Cream well the butter and cream cheese, add flour and salt. Mix until dough is smooth and comes together in a ball. Divide dough into four pieces. Form each into a ball and flatten slightly. Wrap well in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight, until dough is firm.

In a food processor, place all ingredients into the workbowl and pulse repeatedly until a smooth dough comes together and forms a ball, about one minute. Divide dough into four pieces. Form each into a ball and flatten slightly. Wrap well in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight, until dough is firm.

Filling: Combine chopped nuts, sugar and cinnamon in a medium bowl and mix well.

When ready to bake the rugelach, preheat the oven to 350 F/180 C/Gas 4 and place a rack in the center. Line a cookie or baking sheet with parchment or silicone — the filling will ooze and caramelize so a non-stick liner is essential.

Remove the dough from the fridge one ball at a time. Flour the work surface and roll the dough into a circle about 8 or 9″ large and about 1/8″ thick. Spread about 2 tablespoons of jam on the dough then sprinkle on the sugar/nut mixture. If you want to gild the lily, brush on some melted butter before before the jam.

With a pizza wheel or a knife, cut the dough into 12 or 16 wedges. Beginning at the large end, roll each toward the tip, bend into a crescent and place on the prepared pan, tip down. Bake 20 - 25 minutes, rotating the pan after 10 minutes, until the cookies are browned and the filling has caramelized. Let stand for one minute then gently remove to a rack to cool completely. Some of the cookies might lose their crescent shape in the oven; don’t worry, they’re still delicious.

These are best the day they’re made. Store airtight or freeze.

Makes 48 - 64 cookies

Ella’s tip: If you’re using the processor, chop the nuts first then wipe out the bowl without washing it and proceed.

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Tags: Hanukkah