Mushroom soup

Anthony Bourdain says this soup is ridiculously easy and he’s right. It’s also delicious and was a perfect starter for Christmas dinner.

But don’t wait for a special meal to try this. It doesn’t have to be bone-chilling outdoors to enjoy soup and if, like me, you’re trying to atone for holiday indulging, it’s been shown that we tend to eat less if we begin a meal with soup. Yes, there is butter in this, but as Bourdain wrote in Kitchen Confidential, one reason restaurant food tastes better than ours is that chefs cook with butter, whether we know it or not, and often we don’t. Here, we know it. It gives the soup a creaminess without resorting to cream.

One thing I appreciate about this soup is that it uses plain button mushrooms, although more exotic varieties can be used. Even with common buttons, the aroma while this simmers is downright woodsy. It’s finished in a blender but I use a hand blender right in the pot; I like a little texture. And like most soups, it’s even better the next day.

If you do plan to use dried or wild mushrooms, please read Bourdain’s instructions here.

Mushroom Soup

Adapted from Les Halles Cookbook, Anthony Bourdain

6 TB /75 g butter, divided
1 small onion, thinly sliced (I like shallots for this – ella)
12 oz /340 g button mushrooms, rough chop
4 cups /900 ml light chicken stock or broth
1 sprig of flat-leaf parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
2 oz /56 ml high-quality sherry*

*Bourdain says: Don’t use the cheap grocery-store variety; it’s salty and unappetizing and will ruin your soup.

In a large saucepan, melt 2 TB / 28g of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until softened. Add the mushrooms and the rest of the butter.

Sweat the vegetables for about 8 minutes, making sure the onions don’t brown. Lower the heat if they begin to.

Add the chicken broth and parsley, stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat immediately and simmer for one hour. Remove and discard the parsley.

Let the soup cool for a few minutes then puree, in batches, in a blender until smooth. Don’t fill the blender more than halfway each time and be careful to hold down the lid with a kitchen towel as you blend. Alternatively, blend in the pot with a stick blender.

Return to the pot (if necessary), season to taste with salt and pepper and return to a simmer. Add the sherry, stir well and serve immediately.

Serves 4

Bourdain says: And if you really want to ratchet your soup into pretentious (but delicious), drizzle a few tiny drops of truffle oil over the surface just before serving. Why the hell not? Everybody else is doing it.