From Scratch

It’s simply called “chowda” here in New England, as if Manhattan Clam Chowder, with tomatoes, does not exist. A bowl of good New England clam chowder is so satisfying, but making it with fresh clams that have to be steamed, shucked and chopped can be time-consuming, even impractical at times. Toss in the need for salt pork or fat back and it becomes a dish not everyone is willing to make.

I began experimenting with canned clams and bacon a few years ago to try to streamline this favorite of mine. I was happy with the results, but it still took over an hour and the thought of peeling potatoes after a long day often was a deal-breaker.

Then I saw a quick version in Cook’s Illustrated that uses unpeeled potatoes. These are the low-starch, thin-skinned spuds often referred to as boilers or boiling potatoes. In fact, my current sack says ‘Great for boiling or mashing.’ I was skeptical but since CI has been in New England far longer than I have, I tried it. And liked it. Further tweaking, thanks to friends, gave me a delicious, hearty meal in a bowl with colorful eye appeal that I can have on the table in under an hour.

This is also a perfect Lenten meal (without the bacon) and it’s not too early to think about that. Ash Wednesday this year is February 6.

Fast New England Clam Chowder

With help from Cook’s Illustrated

4 slices bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 cup diced onion [I’m not above using frozen here to save time - ella]
1 TB all-purpose flour
1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice
2 cans chopped clams, juice reserved *
1/2 cup water
2 thin-skinned potatoes, such as Red Bliss, (about 12 oz.) scrubbed and diced medium
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp dried thyme leaves or 1/4 tsp crushed
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 - 2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
salt and freshly-ground pepper, to taste

*Canned clams are also sold minced. If that’s all you can find, use them of course.

In a 3-quart saucepan or saucier, heat the bacon over barely medium heat until it is crisp, about 5 -7 minutes. Add the onion — it should sizzle loudly when it hits the pan — and saute a few minutes, until soft.

Add flour, stir about a minute until lightly browned, then gradually add the clam juice from the cans and bottle, stirring constantly or whisking. [the reason for adding it gradually is to prevent the mixture from becoming cold. Not good for the flour.] Gradually whisk in or stir in the water.

Add diced potatoes and herbs and bring to a simmer. Let simmer, uncovered, 10 - 15 minutes, until potaotes are tender.

Add the clams and the remaining ingredients and return to a simmer.  Adjust seasoning if necessary, remove bay leaf and discard and serve steaming hot.

Makes about 1 quart, serving 3.

Ella’s tip: The easiest way to cut raw bacon is with kitchen shears. Just stand over your sauce pan and snip right into it.

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Tags: easy, quick