We usually think of this type of dish as French bistro fare and it is, but this one’s Italian, from Lombardy — its proper name is pollo all’ aceto — so the often-used shallots and thyme are not present. It’s every bit as delicious as its French counterpart and just as simple, now that I’ve streamlined it.
I first made this in the 1980’s, while tackling recipes in Giulliano Bugialli’s authoritative Classic Techniques of Italian Cooking. The technique taught in the recipe, and a few others that are equally good, is cutting a chicken into 18 pieces instead of the usual eight. I made all the recipes in the series, I mastered the technique and I’ve never needed it since. I can’t even remember why it was ever needed at all, let alone enough to be taught.
So we’re not starting with a whole chicken and a knife. We’re starting with pieces. I like thighs here for their flavor and moisture but you can use anything, obviously, even a cut-up chicken in eight parts.
I’ve also eliminated a significant amount of fat. In the original, the pieces were sauteed in enough oil that I consider the right word to be “fried.” I usually saute them skin-on, which is easily removed after cooking, but I did them both ways for the photo. The skinless is on the right.
Because some were skinless I used more oil than I’d have needed otherwise, with the fat rendering from the skin. It was still too much after cooking, so I used kitchen tongs and wadded-up paper towels to soak up the excess. Easy, quick and safe, a perfect way to remove oil or grease from any pan.
And even though I haven’t cut up a chicken into 18 pieces for many years, sometimes when I see one at the market in eight pieces I smile and think, rookies!
Pollo all’ Aceto
Adapted from Giulliano Bugialli
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 TB fresh rosemary, chopped fine
–OR–
1 tsp dried rosemary leaves, crushed between your fingers
1/2 cup/120 mL red wine vinegar
1 – 2 TB olive oil
3 pounds bone-in chicken pieces, approximately, patted dry
1/2 cup/120 mL chicken broth
coarse salt and freshly-ground pepper
In a measuring cup or small bowl, add the garlic and rosemary to the vinegar and let steep at room temperature for 30 – 60 minutes.
Heat the oil in a 12″ skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the chicken skin-side down and season lightly with salt and pepper. Saute for 7 – 8 minutes, until golden. Turn, season again with salt and pepper and saute another 7 – 8 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small pan or in the microwave, bring the broth to a boil.
When the chicken is thoroughly sauteed, add the boiling broth to the skillet, lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, another 15 – 20 minutes, until almost cooked through. Pour the vinegar mixture over the chicken, raise the heat and cook at a rapid simmer for several minutes, until the vinegar evaporates.
Taste for salt and pepper. Transfer the chicken to a serving dish and pour on the pan sauce. Serve at once.
Serves 4
Ella’s tip: Be sure not to crowd the pan or the chicken will steam, not saute. Work in batches if you need to.
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