Italian chicken with vinegar

on Jul 4th, 2008Italian chicken with vinegar

We usually think of this type of dish as French bistro fare and it is, but this one’s Italian, from Lombardy — its proper name is pollo all’ aceto — so the often-used shallots and thyme are not present. It’s every bit as delicious as its French counterpart and just as simple, now that I’ve streamlined it.

I first made this in the 1980’s, while tackling recipes in Giulliano Bugialli’s authoritative Classic Techniques of Italian Cooking. The technique taught in the recipe, and a few others that are equally good, is cutting a chicken into 18 pieces instead of the usual eight. I made all the recipes in the series, I mastered the technique and I’ve never needed it since. I can’t even remember why it was ever needed at all, let alone enough to be taught.

So we’re not starting with a whole chicken and a knife. We’re starting with pieces. I like thighs here for their flavor and moisture but you can use anything, obviously, even a cut-up chicken in eight parts.

I’ve also eliminated a significant amount of fat. In the original, the pieces were sauteed in enough oil that I consider the right word to be “fried.” I usually saute them skin-on, which is easily removed after cooking, but I did them both ways for the photo. The skinless is on the right.

Because some were skinless I used more oil than I’d have needed otherwise, with the fat rendering from the skin. It was still too much after cooking, so I used kitchen tongs and wadded-up paper towels to soak up the excess. Easy, quick and safe, a perfect way to remove oil or grease from any pan.

And even though I haven’t cut up a chicken into 18 pieces for many years, sometimes when I see one at the market in eight pieces I smile and think, rookies!

Pollo all’ Aceto

Adapted from Giulliano Bugialli

2 cloves garlic, minced
1 TB fresh rosemary, chopped fine
–OR–
1 tsp dried rosemary leaves, crushed between your fingers
1/2 cup/120 mL red wine vinegar
1 - 2 TB olive oil
3 pounds bone-in chicken pieces, approximately, patted dry
1/2 cup/120 mL chicken broth
coarse salt and freshly-ground pepper

In a measuring cup or small bowl, add the garlic and rosemary to the vinegar and let steep at room temperature for 30 - 60 minutes.

Heat the oil in a 12″ skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the chicken skin-side down and season lightly with salt and pepper. Saute for 7 - 8 minutes, until golden. Turn, season again with salt and pepper and saute another 7 - 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small pan or in the microwave, bring the broth to a boil.

When the chicken is thoroughly sauteed, add the boiling broth to the skillet, lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, another 15 - 20 minutes, until almost cooked through. Pour the vinegar mixture over the chicken, raise the heat and cook at a rapid simmer for several minutes, until the vinegar evaporates.

Taste for salt and pepper. Transfer the chicken to a serving dish and pour on the pan sauce. Serve at once.

Serves 4

Ella’s tip: Be sure not to crowd the pan or the chicken will steam, not saute. Work in batches if you need to.