From Scratch

When I miss Maryland, as I have been lately, the only thing short of going there that satisfies my longing is Old Bay. The seasoning mix is the integral ingredient in steamed crabs and enhances many other dishes. As Chesapeake Bay blue crab is not a staple in New England stores, I usually make this shrimp boil, which is just as informal as steamed crabs. Both can be dumped right onto newspaper covering the table and the shrimp is peeled at the table, just as crabs are picked. Corn on the cob, traditional with steamed crabs, is here too and when lucky enough to have local sweet corn the meal’s even more divine.

“Boil” refers to the spices, added to or with boiling water before the shrimp. America has many boils; they’re especially common in the South and Maryland, don’t forget, is below the Mason-Dixon line.

The recipe is for four servings, but a half-pound of shrimp will easily feed two and I usually make that amount. It requires a bit of adjustment in the cooking since the food is not fully submerged and I note those changes in the directions. If you’re making the full amount but because of your pan your food’s not submerged, the notes can help you too. Key is not to overcook the shrimp; when they just turn pink they’re done — and not rubbery.

About Old Bay: it’s a piquant, proprietary blend, unlike any other. I saw a new reduced-sodium version last winter. I didn’t buy it — I had a fresh can of the regular at home — but I was allowed to photograph it in the market. Click to enlarge. I haven’t tried the rub in the photo.

And if you’ve never learned how to pick steamed crabs, it’s simple to do but difficult to explain. Fortunately, there’s a good instructional video on Old Bay’s site. If you can’t see the gills when she explains that they are discarded, there are two of them, they’re grey and spongy and you really don’t want to eat them. I ate part of one on a dare when I was young. Blerg!

Maryland Shrimp Boil

Adapted from Old Bay

4 cups water (32 ounces)
2 TB Old Bay Seasoning
1/2 TB salt  2 medium red potatoes, quartered
1 small onion, peeled and cut into wedges
1/2 pound lean smoked sausage, cut into 2″ pieces*
2 ears corn, shucked and cut into 2 or 3 pieces
1 pound unpeeled large or jumbo shrimp

*I use hot Italian turkey or chicken sausage and use 1 large sausage for 2 servings.

In a Dutch oven or large saucepan, bring the water, Old Bay and salt to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes and onion, reduce heat and cook, uncovered, 8 minutes at a strong simmer, turning the potatoes midway if necessary (if they’re not submerged).

Add the sausage and cook 5 minutes. Add the corn and cook an additional 7 minutes. [If making only 2 servings, test the corn and potatoes for tenderness. You will probably need to cover the pan and simmer for another 6 - 8 minutes. ~ ella]

Add the shrimp and stir. Cook about 4 minutes, just until they are pink. [If not submerged, cover the pan and check after only 3 minutes ~ ella]

Drain off the liquid. Serve on a platter or dumped onto newspaper. Sprinkle with more Old Bay, if desired.

Serves 4

Ella’s notes: I had Vidalia scallions on hand and used a couple of those, white and green parts, in place of the onion. Black Tiger shrimp, often called EZ Peel, are perfect here. The original uses 6 ounces of beer in the first step. I don’t use it and can’t imagine what it might add to the taste.

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